Whitcomb and Shaftesbury of London
Making a Savile Row Suit

1. Marking the pattern first on paper, then onto the fabric. Accounting for every possible figuration.

Making a Savile Row Suit

2. 'Striking' the cloth. Once the pattern is marked on the cloth, it is cut with shears (known as striking).

Making a Savile Row Suit

3. Hand padding the canvas. The chest is shaped during this stage, by padding, steaming and shrinking the canvas to form a 3D skeleton.

Making a Savile Row Suit

4.'Basting' the fabric to the canvas. This is done with special techniques to allow the canvas to 'float' between the fabric and lining, and wrap around the body.

Making a Savile Row Suit

5. Hand padding of lapels creates a distinctive roll.

Making a Savile Row Suit

6. Preparing the pockets by hand, and securing the ends with tiny 'd-tacks' to prevent sagging.

Making a Savile Row Suit

7. Shaping the lapel is crucial for the overall look.

Making a Savile Row Suit

8. Shoulder pads are minimal and set to 'lift' the coat off the shoulders.

Making a Savile Row Suit

9. A large sleeve is 'fitted' into a small armhole to create the holy trinity of comfort, form and movement.

Making a Savile Row Suit

10. The setting of the collar is crucial to ensure coat sits on the body without lifting off during movement.

Making a Savile Row Suit

11. Pressing during the making is essential to create shape in the coat, otherwise the flat lifeless look of readymade coats will result.

Making a Savile Row Suit

12. All hems, linings and buttonholes are sewn by hand to finish the coat.

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